The Road to Fez

After three days in Rabat, we have left the comfort of Hotel Majliss for a six-week crash course in Moroccan culture and language at the Arabic Language Institute in Fez.  Leaving Rabat, it is amazing to see how each city has its own distinct personality.

Fez has a special place in Moroccan history.  Although Rabat currently serves as the seat of Morocco’s government, and Casablanca holds the position as Morocco’s most bustling commercial city, Fez represents the heart and soul of Morocco.  The oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities, the Medina Kadima is the largest living Medieval city in the world, is designated a World Heritage site, and has a population of over one million.  And because of all these factors, including growing tourism, Fez is changing every day.

Upon arriving in Fez, we were briefly briefed by the director of ALIF, and were then let loose on Fez.  My friend Jess and I travelled to the Medina Kadima, in the attempt to find some food to eat.  Since Ramadan is well under way, we knew, of course, that lay before us.  But we received a helpful tip from a flyer at the school, about a restaurant called Café Clock, that apparently was serving lunch during the day.  With nothing more than a nearby landmark, the Madersa Bouaniana.

We proceeded to walk down the expansive main road in Fez, heading in the direction of the Medina.  When we were approached by a couple faux guides.  The Fez faux guides have interesting stories.  Most can speak varying degrees of English, French, Italian, German, Russian, and really anything a tourist might throw at them.  They learn it themselves, through television or through websites.  They walk the streets of the Medina Jadid, looking for foreigners who are looking for a familiar tongue and a friendly face.  They offer tours of the Medina, “for free,”  but often expect a few dirhams in return.  They also receive a commission on any purchases a tourist might acquire with their help.  This is their living.  Most of them are friendly Moroccans, just trying to make some money.  And for Jess and I, a pretty good indicator about how much we stick out in Morocco.

Jess and I eventually discovered Café Clock, located in back alley in the Medina Kadima.  Operated by a couple Brits (je pense), Café Clock seems to cater to the local ex-pat community, as it’s not the easiest place for a tourist to find.  The food is a little more expensive than the street fare, but the wifi is free , and its peaceful location is a welcome respite from Moroccan life.

After Café Clock, we returned to the Villas near ALIF, ready to jump into the next step in this journey—meeting my Moroccan host family.